Toy Making as a Source of Livelihood: Story from Channapatna





The toymaking tradition, enjoying a mark of cultural recognition, dates back to the time of Tipu Sultan. Throughout his reign as a treat, Tipu got a piece of woodwork from Persia and he fell in love with it. In the art of wooden toymaking, he is supposed to have invited Persian artisans to teach his people.

The practice of toymaking, which has a regional identification (GI) label, dates back to Tipu Sultan’s period. Tipu got a piece of woodwork from Persia during his rule as a present and he fell in love with it. He is believed to have welcomed Persian artisans in the art of wooden toymaking to teach his people.

The road from Bengaluru to Channapatna is 62 km. The facilities for toy production are located some 3 km from the interiors. Bengaluru’s Channapatna town is renowned for the exquisite wood carving toys.

Channapatna is a small village in Kannada that is far from the luxurious area. Here the toy manufacturing industry.ost of the villagers are reliant on it for a living.

The toys were originally made entirely from ivory wood (Wrightia tinctoria), or hale mara as it is known locally, and decorated with a lacquer made with vegetable colouring. The soft white paint and simple to cut quality also make it the preferred choice of craftsmen; the vivid colours used to lacquer the wood can be seen on the ivory wood layer.

Nevertheless, teakwood, rubberwood, silver oak, pinewood, sycamore, and cedar have been picked up through late use. Ironically, in the manufacturing process, almost no wood is lost: cut parts go into the production of other products, and any excess goes to the inciens sector. It is important to reuse the items themselves.

The system of development sounds simple but takes tremendous ability. Next, the timber is procured (with less administrative intervention and less abuse from forest scope police, this has now become easier). Then for two to three months, it is trained. It is then carved on a lathe in the appropriate forms and buffed for a smooth finish with sandpaper. While the wood is still warm on the lathe, the lacquer is added and the traction allows it to stick. Finally, the lacquer is evenly spread over the piece. The rough edges were covered with the cactus seed.

Across England, these toys also had a great demand. The toys at that period were even sold to China. Yet China later underwent major industry shifts. They progressed strongly in the manufacturing of toys and electronic equipment. There were a lot of Chinese toys taking over the role of Channapatna toys.

Of approximately 70 per cent of the Channapatna people, toy making has been the livelihood of decades. Although the site carries in its name the privilege of a Patna (town), it is a small village with narrow, muddy streets, huts and roof workshops.

Even today, the charm of these toys is because they are made not in large-scale factories and industries, but homes or small ventures.

With the conventional toy manufacturers being able to produce every demand-based wooden toy and curio, things lookup. The plain, sleek and sturdy toys such as spinning tops, dolls, carts, and rocking horses in shimmering colours find audiences with help from organizations and the industry looks forward to colourful days.

 

The Different Way to Make Dolls:

 

Homemade toys are cost-effective, pleasant to make, and can end up as items. They also make fantastic gifts follow the instructions below to find out a few new ways to make your household among the most popular kids ‘ toys, the doll

 

METHOD-1

 

The scope of doll heads from pre-painted plastic heads with synthetic hair to simplistic base elements that you see fit can be mixed. Keep in mind that if you purchase a doll’s face, ears, and a wig all individually, you will have to do a little more work to put the doll together.

 

When creating a doll with rotating limbs, smaller plastic doll pieces may typically be pushed into pre-fitted holes on the frame. Alternatively, use an appropriate form of glue (plastic cement or wood glue) to fasten the limbs of the doll in place, or create a doll from easier or more complicated pieces.

If the head of your doll doesn’t come pre-painted, it’s time to put on it the lipstick (and ears when necessary). For most things, acrylic paint will fit. If painting, use a small brush, to begin with, the base colours first (e.g. white, then pigment, then a black eye pupil). Let each surface dry before the next one begins, and let the doll dry for a few hours after you’re finished.

 

If your doll wants a hat, it’s time to add it now. Through firmly glueing bits of yarn to the top of the head of the doll with a strong adhesive, you can make a simple and permanent wig, or you can make a switchable one by embroidering yarn into a piece of fabric cut to rest on the head of the doll. Now available for purchase are pre-made doll wigs.

 

Dress the doll as you like, using whatever doll clothes you bought. If you couldn’t find any good doll clothes, set aside the doll for now and make it a task to find those. When the doll is placed together, decorated, and in a dress, it’s over!

 

METHOD 2

 

Fold a 10-by-18-inch piece of washable fabric (for the body) from end to end, facing correct sides; place a model on fabric withdrawn shoulder lines on the fold and cut into solid lines; snap. Cut a 3-by-7-inch strip (for the head) and four2-inch strips (for hands and feet) from an almost 10-inch sheet of cotton jersey (for skin).

 

Start at the bottom outer edge of one leg, stitch side to arm end with a seam allowance of 1/4-inch. Continue on the body’s other hand. Sew the legs ‘ internal sides. On the skin, notch curves. Fold the lengthwise rectangle of the head in half; tap. Beginning at the fold, stitch a curved shape across the short end, as shown, and begin to stitch open side; snip off the excess cloth, maintaining seam allowance of 1/8-inch.

 

 

 

 

Cut three strips of wool or polyester batting 2-by-7-inch; lie as shown in a star shape. Roll more into a ball of 2 inches; put on the light. Use a chopstick and your hands to drive batting into your ear. Head should be firm; if appropriate, apply more hitting, smoothing with your hands.

 

 

 

To build a collar, attach the cord in the same color as the skin around the head under the cap. A closed hole at the base of the thread. Put 1-inch batting ball on each square for hands and feet; pack, tie with thread.

Toe material, but not as strong as the face. Use the set stitch to close the gap of the chest. Slip the head in the gap of the chest. Whipstitch head to toe with a double length of skin-colored fabric, folding under the raw edge of the leg. Repeat for the feet and hands.

 

 

 

Use pins to mark the placement of features. For hair, sew in loops on the yarn; make an extra stitch at the end of the loops to keep everything in place.

 

 

Snip loops of hair, and fluff. Use fingers to shape the toy’s face.




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